Green Hotel in Jackson Hole

Alpine House, in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, gets all of its energy from wind power plants. The Crowne Plaza Cabana in Palo Alto is California’s only solar-powered hotel. The Habitat Suites Hotel in Austin powers both its electricity and water with solar energy. And the luxe El Monte Sagrado in Taos, New Mexico can filter waste water into pure drinking water without harmful chlorination.

And finding green hotels is getting easier as booking engines are getting into the game. Last October, for example, the online hotel discounter Quikbook.com launched a filter to search for green hotels.

Green practices can be confusing to casual customers, though. The Vancouver Hilton, for example, brags about how its windows can open, helping fresh air circulate. But the Orchard Garden boasts the opposite: sealed windows that allow for total climate control. And while some features are very visible, such as the Vancouver Hilton’s alternative fueling stations for electric cars; others go unseen, such as the Orchard Garden’s fly-ash-in-concrete infrastructure.

Jackson Hole, Wyo

The Draw

• Upscale living in a rustic, rural setting

• Small-town vibe with big-city sophistication, within driving distance of the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone

• Outdoor activities year round, from backcountry skiing to river rafting to fly fishing to horseback safaris

The Scene

Harrison Ford and Dick Cheney have probably only one thing in common -- homes in Jackson Hole, the valley just south of the Grand Tetons National Park and one of the most exclusive getaways in the West. Millionaire transplants have been migrating to the area like elk, the once-ancient ski lifts have been snazzily overhauled in recent years and the shops and restaurants in the main town of Jackson are looking more and more like Beverly Hills. There's now a Four Seasons at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain -- adding another luxury component to Aman Resorts' only North American property -- and the surrounding county boasts one of the highest per capita incomes in the nation. But real cowboys (yes, complete with hats) mosey around the village in boots, pickup trucks still outnumber Lexuses, moose wander through the neighborhoods and wild deer herds skirt around the valley followed by bear.

To Be Seen

• National Elk Refuge. Thousands of wild elk call this nearly 25,000-acre preserve on the northern fringe of town their home, making up the longest herd migration of elk in the lower 48.

• Corbet's Cabin. Summer or winter, be sure to take the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to this summit restaurant with miles-wide views from its deck or dining room at 10,450 feet.

• National Museum of Wildlife Art. This multimillion-dollar installation in a dramatic rock building sitting on a butte is a one-of-a-kind museum with more than 4,000 works.

• Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park. The area's real draws are these two magnificent parks, the former less than an hour's drive away, and the latter about three hours.

For The VIP

• Powder your nose. Some 500 inches of snow fall every year over five mountain ranges and more than 305,000 acres of skiable terrain. You can be the only one tracking fresh powder via local chopper-rental companies.

• Go native. You don't even have to be a guest of the Amangani, Jackson Hole's most luxurious retreat, to take advantage of its signature luxury teepee. You and yours can enjoy a customized gourmet dinner menu and a couple's massage overlooking Grand Teton.

• Capture wildlife. Rich Clarkson, former director of photography for National Geographic Magazine, leads small group photo safaris in the wilderness of Jackson Hole, with top-drawer Nikon equipment and G4 computers, finding rare wildlife and amazing vistas. This exclusive tour happens every October for guests of the Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole.

Overrated

Backcountry skiing. Although the cross-country skiing in the Grand Teton National Park itself is amazingly scenic, the much-touted backcountry around Jackson is also used by noisy snowmobiles.

Underrated

The shoulder seasons. Every traveler to Jackson Hole heads here for either the snow or summer outdoor activities, but spring is filled with bursting wildflowers, and fall with trees turning colors. Moreover, the town of Jackson throws some fun shoulder-season events, like the cowboy-themed Old West Days, complete with rodeo, in May, and the 10-day Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival in September.

Don't Miss

Stagecoach Bar and Grill. Everyone in town eventually heads to the Million Dollar Bar in Jackson for country music, but check out the Stagecoach for a more off-the-path experience. This friendly and happening honky-tonk on the edge of town has great live music, two-stepping cowboys straight off the ranch and pool tables -- it's the real thing.

When To Go

Skiers love Jackson Hole's snowy season from December through March, but actually the summer months between Memorial Day and Labor Day are the busiest, when rooms may be hard to find. Come during shoulder seasons to avoid the crowds.

National Park Gems: Yellowstone

Abandon all hope, ye who drive to Yellowstone this summer. Most of the park’s three million visitors a year don’t leave their cars, giving rise to a local phenomenon: the wildlife jam. A stray bear or bison can instigate bumper-to-bumper congestion worthy of an L.A. freeway.
The National Park Service recorded 272 million visitors last year, but the good news is that with hundreds of parks and millions of acres of land, you don’t necessarily have to share your vacation with legions of fellow solitude-seekers.

How can you find some of the less-trodden corners of the park system? You can start by avoiding the Interstate. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has a highway running through it and gets more than nine million visitors per year—the most of any park in the system. By contrast, Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve in Alaska has no roads, is best reached by float plane, and got a grand total of 60 recreational visitors in 2006.
One good way to find out whether you’re headed for SUV oblivion is to use the statistics compiled by the National Park Service. Another tactic is simply to avoid following the herd. Most Americans probably can only rattle a few famous national parks off the top of their heads, like Yellowstone, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon and Mount Rushmore. Pass them by this year.
Walk through the Congaree old-growth forest in South Carolina or follow the bison herds across Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota and you’ll have a far better chance of seeing some spectacular scenery or wildlife without looking through someone else’s viewfinder.

But even if you decide to visit a famous park, that still doesn’t mean that you need to get stuck with the trundling masses.
“Most people stay within a couple of hundred yards of the scenic overlooks,” says Kathy Kupper, a spokesperson for the National Park Service. “If you get on the trails and into the back country, you can have a near-wilderness experience away from the crowds. Just remember to stay on marked trails and take plenty of water with you.”
Even the most popular parks have their secret corners. Sven Feitknecht, tour director for Globus Tours, says that he has traveled through Yellowstone as many as 150 times since 1991 and still looks forward to discovering the park anew, particularly his favorite corner—the Lamar Valley. Located in the northeast corner of the park and totally inaccessible by vehicle, the area is home to many of Yellowstone’s wolf packs.
“Time can never efface the image of the evening sun gently gliding behind the western mountain and casting gigantic shadows across the vale,” reflects Feitknecht. “Most tourists want to drive to the various sightseeing spots, which is why 99 percent of Yellowstone is not visited by man. Our guests are usually very surprised to find out that the Lamar Valley is still very much a hidden secret.”
So this summer, give Old Faithful a miss. How about spotting wild horses in Maryland, watching lava crash into the ocean in Hawaii or scuba diving the wreck of a passenger steamer in Michigan? We’ve compiled a list of 10 hidden gems of the national park system. Happy exploring.

Hotel de Crillon, Paris, France

The Experience

Of all the legendary hotels of Paris, the Crillon might enjoy the grandest setting. It faces the fountains of the Place de la Concorde, overlooking the Tuileries Gardens and the Seine. Originally built as a palace in 1758 by Louis XV, then inhabited by the Count de Crillon, the hotel today is owned and operated by the Taittinger family. Yet for all its grandeur, it's one of the city's more intimate hotels, with only 147 rooms and a history of family ownership. Ironically, it's history that also creates the hotel's biggest drawback: Three of its eight banquet rooms are classified as national historic landmarks, making it a noted venue for high-traffic meetings and events.

The Rooms

There's no such thing as a standard room under this palatial roof. All rooms have been restored in Louis XV style under the joint aegis of the French National Historic Landmark Commission and the acclaimed French designer Sybille de Margerie. The most modest "Superior" rooms have king-size beds, pastel walls with white moldings, chandeliers, velvet sofas, separate dressing rooms and marble bathrooms with Annick Goutal toiletries, fresh flowers and towels featuring the hotel crest. The most over-the-top suite is named in honor of Leonard Bernstein, who used to enjoy its majestic terrace with a view stretching from the Eiffel Tower to what is now the Musée d'Orsay.

The Service
Maybe it's the influence of the Taittinger women, but the Crillon excels in taking care of its female guests. Tea is served on arrival, and fashion magazines are displayed on the coffee table. Upon request, a team of Crillon "angels" from guest relations will meet with guests over coffee to arrange shopping trips or private viewings of art collections. There is also a specially trained in-house nursery staff to look after children.

The Highlights
The Crillon is sublimely located for fashionistas looking to shop the famous names on and around the Faubourg St. Honoré. But it's also perfect for the gourmand: The restaurant Les Ambassadeurs not only shares the magnificent views but has also earned two Michelin stars under chef Jean-François Piège. Then end your day at the fabulous Crillon Bar, tucked behind the lobby. Designed by the sculptor Cesar, decorated by fashion designer Sonia Rykiel and open until 2 a.m., it's the perfect place for a snack and (what else) a coupe of Taittinger.

Paris, France: The Draw

A city devoted to the finer things in life, from all things cultural, aesthetic and gourmet to the unexpected discoveries of an afternoon stroll

• A trend of top-notch chefs going bistro style, so indulging in world-class cuisine at every meal doesn't have to break the bank

• New galleries devoted to becoming hot spots for contemporary art, not just repositories for great works of the canon

The Scene

Paris has long been the first stop on the cultivated traveler's grand tour, the place where the world comes to learn sophistication and style. Local pride has kept the city surprisingly free of generic superstores, and the city can still transport the visitor to an alternate universe of artisan shops and timeless French cafes. While the Left Bank hot spots of the past haven't entirely lost their charm, savvy travelers know to seek out the livelier, lesser-known corners where the Picassos of today drink, draw and dream. A plethora of recently revitalized neighborhoods -- from the hopping nightlife of Bastille to the artsy Canal St. Martin to the diverse, up-and-coming Belleville -- provide room for the visitor to find his very own moveable feast.

To Be Seen

• St. Germain des Pres. Now one of the most expensive neighborhoods in France, this district is still home to a lively cafe scene that includes former Sartre haunt Cafe de Flore, and Les Deux Magots, where Hemingway was a regular, along with countless bookstores and boutiques.
• Ile de la Cité, Ile St-Louis and Beaubourg. While tourists swarm Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle, many fail to discover the rest of the surrounding area's charms: the elegant, 17th-century mansions and courtyards, prime antiques shops and well-known flower market.
• Montparnasse. Former home to the "Lost Generation," Montparnasse still feels refreshingly untouristy, appearing much as it did in the 1920s -- though don't expect the cafe life here to come cheap.

For The VIP
• Rent a yacht and cruise the Seine. Cliché or no, this is one of the most leisurely and romantic ways to view the city, day or night.
• Dinner at L'Arpege. While there's something absurd about choosing the best restaurant in Paris, triple-star L'Arpege is at the top of many a gourmand's list. Reserve well in advance to sample the genius of chef Alain Passard, though you really can't go wrong at any of the other much-touted temples of gastronomy, like Taillevent, Alain Ducasse or Pierre Gagnaire.
• Follow in the steps of countless Rothschilds with a trip to the poshest dealers in town, Galerie J. Kugel, where museum-worthy antiques are laid out over the mansion's four floors.
Overrated
The Latin Quarter. While there's still some diversion to be found here, this area is a ghost of its former self -- packed with tourists and overpriced, substandard restaurants.
Underrated
First Arrondissement. This used to be one of the sleepier parts of town, but now those in the know come here to shop at smart new boutiques like Colette on the Rue St. Honoré.

Don't Miss
Le Palais de Tokyo. Yes, there are too many museums in Paris to choose from, but it shouldn't be hard to make time for this relative newcomer, the center of the city's contemporary art scene. A happening vibe penetrates the hip, stripped-down interior as visitors wander through the interactive exhibits and mingle with mavens of the avant-garde.

When To Go
May through June and September through October are ideal. July can sometimes be unpleasantly hot, and Parisians tend to go elsewhere during August.